ISBN:
0816687463
,
0816687471
,
9780816687473
,
9780816687466
Language:
English
Pages:
XXIII, 289, 4 S.
,
Ill.
Series Statement:
Habits of being 3
Series Statement:
Habits of being
DDC:
809/.933564
Keywords:
Clothing and dress in literature
;
Fashion in literature
;
Literature and society History 19th century
;
Clothing and dress Social aspects
;
Fashion Social aspects
;
Aufsatzsammlung
;
Kleidung
;
Mode
;
Geschichte 1800-1900
;
USA
;
Europa
;
Mode
;
Gesellschaft
;
Geschichte 1800-1900
;
USA
;
Europa
;
Literatur
;
Mode
;
Geschichte 1800-1900
Abstract:
" In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion--once the province of the well-to-do--began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes--and back. The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls' school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows' mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie's varying dress in Kate Chopin's eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion. Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnes Derail-Imbert, École Normale Superieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Universite of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Defense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan. "--
Description / Table of Contents:
Machine generated contents note:Contents -- Preface and Acknowledgments -- Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade -- Introduction: Fashioning a Century -- Cristina Giorcelli -- 1. Psychoanalytic Views of Cross-Dressing and Transvestism -- Bianca Iaccarino Idelson -- 2. Our Job Is to Create Beauty: A Personal Memoir of La Perla -- Anna Masotti -- 3. Modernity Clothing: Birthing the Modern Atlantic/Birthing the Modern Republic -- Carroll Smith-Rosenberg -- 4. Garment of the Unseen: The Philosophy of Clothes in Carlyle and Emerson -- Giuseppe Nori -- 5. An Emblem of All the Rest: Wearing the Widow's Cap in Victorian Literature -- Dagni Bredesen -- 6. Clothing the Marmorean Flock: Sartorial Historicism and The Marble Faun -- Bruno Monfort -- 7. Florence -- Beryl Korot -- 8. Accessories to the Crime in What Maisie Knew -- Clair Hughes -- 9. Costume and Form: D'Annunzio and Mutable Appearances -- Marta Savini -- 10. Shawls Redefine Womanhood in American Literature, 1850s-1920s -- Anna Scacchi -- 11. A Lovely Little Coffee-Colored Dress: Education, Female Identity, and Dress at the End of the Nineteenth Century -- Carmela Covato -- 12. Gender and Power: Dressing "Charlie" -- Cristina Giorcelli -- 13. Imaginative Habits: Fantasies of Undressing in The Ambassadors -- Agnes Derail-Imbert -- Coda: Seen and Obscene -- Paula Rabinowitz -- Contributors.
Note:
Includes bibliographical references
URL:
http://scans.hebis.de/HEBCGI/show.pl?34058397_toc.pdf
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