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  • ebrary, Inc  (13)
  • Oxford : Berg  (9)
  • Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
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  • 1
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1283079690 , 9781847886323 , 9781847886316 , 9781847887399 , 9781472504401 , 9780857851420
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (viii, 204 p) , ill
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Parallel Title: Print version Global denim
    DDC: 306.4
    Keywords: Jeans (Clothing) Social aspects ; Culture and globalization ; Denim Social aspects ; Jeans (Clothing) Social aspects ; Denim Social aspects ; Culture and globalization
    Abstract: On any given day nearly half the world's population is wearing blue jeans. This is entirely extraordinary. Yet there has never been a serious attempt to understand the causes, nature and consequences of denim as 'the' global garment of our world. This book takes up that challenge with gusto. It gives clear, if surprising, explanations for why this is the case; challenging the accepted history of jeans and showing why the reasons cannot be commercial. While discussing the consequences of denim at the global level, the book consists of some exemplary studies by anthropologists of what blue jeans mean in a variety of local situations. These range from the discussion of hip-hop jeans in Germany, denim and sex in Milan through to the connection between denim and recycling in the US. But through all these intensively researched ethnographies of local denim we build our understanding of the most curious of all features of blue jeans - the rise of global denim
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , The making of an American icon: the transformation of blue jeans during the Great Depression , Diverting denim: screening jeans in Bollywood , How blue jeans went green: the materiality of an American icon , The limits of jeans in Kannur, Kerala , 'Brazilian jeans': materiality, body and seduction at a Rio de Janeiro's Funk Ball , Indigo bodies: fashion, mirror work and sexual identity in Milan , Jeanealogies: materiality and the (im)permanence of relationships and intimacy , Carrot-cut jeans: an ethnographic account of assertiveness, embarrassment and ambiguity in the figuration of working -class male youth identities in Berlin , The jeans that don't fit: marketing cheap jeans in Brazil , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 2
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 1282818147 , 9780521199070 , 9781282818149 , 9780511917448
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xvi, 345 p) , ill
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Cambridge studies in comparative politics
    Parallel Title: Print version Immigration and Conflict in Europe
    DDC: 304.8/4
    Keywords: Immigrants Cultural assimilation ; Ethnic conflict ; Europe Ethnic relations ; Europe Race relations ; Europe Emigration and immigration
    Abstract: Explains why we observe clashes between immigrants and natives and between immigrants and state actors in some locations
    Description / Table of Contents: Cover; Half-title; Series-title; Title; Copyright; Dedication; Contents; List of Figures and Tables; Acknowledgments; Part I General Introduction and Theoretical Framework; 1 Introduction; 2 A Theory of Immigrant Conflict; Part II Introduction to Part II; 3 Patterns of Immigrant Conflict in Great Britain; 4 Dynamics of Racist Violence; Part III Introduction to Part III; Previewing the Cases; Addressing Competing Explanations; 5 Immigrant-Native Conflict in Two London Boroughs; 6 Two Faces of Immigrant Conflict in Two Midlands Cities; Part IV Introduction to Part IV
    Description / Table of Contents: 7 Economic Integration, Political Exclusion, and Immigrant Conflict in Germany8 Immigration and Conflict across Countries; 9 Conclusion; Appendix A Coding Large-Scale Instances of Immigrant-Native and Immigrant-State Violence; Appendix B Data and Variables: Immigrant Turnout; Sample Used in Models; Dependent Variables; Independent Variables; References; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 3
    ISBN: 9781845208141 , 1845208145 , 9781845208134 , 1845208137
    Language: English
    Pages: VII, 190 S.
    Edition: English ed., 1. publ.
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Online-Ressource ebrary online Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Edition: [S.l.] Ebrary Berg new media series
    Parallel Title: Druckausg. Green, Nicola, 1969 - Mobile communications
    DDC: 302.231
    RVK:
    Keywords: Wireless Internet Social aspects ; Mobile communication systems Social aspects ; Cellular telephones Social aspects ; Wireless Internet Social aspects ; Mobile communication systems Social aspects ; Cell phones Social aspects ; Mobile Telekommunikation ; Soziologie ; Handy ; Kommunikation ; Neue Medien ; Kommunikation
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 4
    ISBN: 1847883664 , 1847883672 , 1847883680 , 9781847883667 , 9781847883674 , 9781847883681
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (viii, 245 p) , ill
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Uniform Title: Wann is Mode? 〈engl.〉
    Parallel Title: Print version When clothes become fashion
    DDC: 746.9/2
    Keywords: Aesthetics ; Costume Psychological aspects ; Fashion design ; Clothing trade ; Fashion ; Costume Psychological aspects ; Fashion ; Fashion design ; Aesthetics ; Clothing trade
    Abstract: "When, how and why do clothes become fashion? Fashion is more than mere clothing. It is a moment of invention, a distillation of desire, a reflection of a zeitgeist. It is also economically relevant relying on an intricate network of manufacture, marketing and retail. Fashion is both medium and message but it does not explain itself. It requires language and images for its global mediation. It develops from the prescience of the designer and is dependent on acceptance by observers and wearers alike. When Clothes Become Fashion explores the structures and strategies which underlie fashion innovation, how fashion is perceived and the point at which clothing is accepted or rejected as fashion. The book provides a clear theoretical framework for understanding the system of fashion - its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities and economic conditions."--publisher's website
    Description / Table of Contents: Fashion Theory.Does Fashion Need a Theory?Textiles as MaterialClothes as FormFashion as SystemInvention and Innovation.When Is Invention?When Is Creativity?When Is Innovation?When Clothes Become Fashion.When Is Fashion?When Is Fashion Art?When Is Fashion Design?
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 5
    ISBN: 9780521866606 , 9780521685580 , 052186660X , 0521685583
    Language: English
    Pages: X, 310 S. , graph. Darst.
    Edition: 1. publ.
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Online-Ressource ebrary online Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Edition: [S.l.] Ebrary
    Series Statement: Structural analysis in the social sciences 30
    Series Statement: Structural analysis in the social sciences
    Parallel Title: Druckausg. Kilduff, Martin, 1949 - Interpersonal networks in organizations
    DDC: 302.35
    RVK:
    RVK:
    RVK:
    Keywords: Self-perception ; Social perception ; Social networks ; Organizational behavior Social aspects ; Power (Social sciences) ; Organizational behavior Social aspects ; Social networks ; Self-perception ; Social perception ; Power (Social sciences) ; Organisationsphsychologie ; Soziales Netzwerk ; Organisationskultur ; Organisationspsychologie ; Soziales Netzwerk ; Organisationsverhalten ; Soziale Wahrnehmung ; Soziales Netzwerk
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 6
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1845206991 , 1845206983 , 1847883486 , 9781845206994 , 9781845206987 , 9781847883483
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (ix, 178 p)
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Materializing culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Why women wear what they wear
    DDC: 646/.34
    Keywords: Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress Psychological aspects ; Clothing and dress Social aspects ; Women's clothing Social aspects ; Women's clothing Psychological aspects
    Abstract: 'Why Women Wear What they Wear' presents an intimate ethnography of clothing choice. The book uses real women's lives and clothing decisions - observed and discussed at the moment of getting dressed - to illustrate theories of clothing, the body, and identity
    Description / Table of Contents: Understanding women and their wardrobesHanging out in the home and the bedroomBut what were you wearing? clothes and memoriesLooking good, feeling right : the aesthetics of getting dressedLooking in the mirror : seeing and being seenMothers, daughters, friends : dressing in relationshipsFashion : making and breaking the rulesDressing up and dressing down : can you wear jeans?
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 159-168) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 7
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859737250 , 185973720X , 184788895X , 9781847888952
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiii, 220 p) , ill
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Unzipping Gender : Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture
    RVK:
    RVK:
    RVK:
    Keywords: Transvestites ; Transvestism Cross-cultural studies ; Transvestites ; Transvestism Psychological aspects ; Transvestism ; Transvestism Cross-cultural studies ; Transvestites ; Transvestism ; Transvestism Psychological aspects ; Transvestites
    Abstract: How does culture shape notions of sexuality and gender? Why are transvestites in the West so often seen as deviant or perverse, while they are accepted in other societies? What are the implications for the categories of male and female when consideri ng transvestism? Transvestism, and its cultural practice, is a useful lens through which we can view and thus debate models of sex, gender and sexuality. Drawing on primary fieldwork, Unzipping Gender offers a cross-cultural study of transvestism thr ough an examination of transvestites in Britain and the Hijras of India. The author tackles the cr
    Description / Table of Contents: Preliminaries; Contents; List of Illustrations; Preface and Acknowledgements; 1 Introduction; 2 Clothing Sex, Sexing Clothes; 3 Transvestites in the UK; 4 Disorder Within the Pattern; 5 Crossing Gender Boundaries in Cultural Context; 6 Dressing Up/Dressing Down: Reconsidering Sex and Gender Culture; 7 Thinking of Themselves; Appendices; Bibliography; Index
    Description / Table of Contents: The doctrines of gender. The prevalence of transvestism. Clothing as gender landscapeClothing sex, sexing clothes : transvestism, material culture and the sex and gender debate. The importance of sex and gender. Dress and identity : transvestism and material culture. 'Is gender to culture as sex is to nature?' : transvestism and the discourses of sex and gender. Corporeality and the politics of sex. Clothing the brain -- Transvestites in the UK : the dream of fair women. Are those women's clothes? Fieldwork in the UK. Becoming extraordinary : the experience of the transvestite in Western societies. Becoming 'the other.' UK transvestites : interviews with Anthony/Suzanne, John/Joy, Dan/Shelly, Gavin/Gina and Simon/Sandra. The range of possibilities. Clothing choices. Some conclusions about UK transvestites -- Disorder within the pattern : the hijras of India. Fieldwork in India. Hijras in context : who are hijras? Why the hijras? The need to categorise : studies of the hijras. Becoming a hijra. Hijras and the principle of male and female union. Hijras and religion -- Crossing gender boundaries in cultural context : fieldwork comparisons and cultural influences. cross-dressing and clothing choices. Differences in lifestyle. Transvestism within contrasting cosmological contexts -- Dressing up/dressing down : reconsidering sex and gender culture. Woman=soft, man=hard : concepts of language made material. Gendered emotions and the ceremony of naven. Masculine representation of the feminine. Jung and the inner world of opposites. sex, gender or sexuality? Crossing gender as an 'institutionalised' role. The Brazilian travestis. Binary categorisation as 'common sense.' Masculinity, femininity ; genetics and mosaics. The correlates of gender culture-transvestism as material objectification. Cross-cultural evidence and the conceptualisation of gender crossing. Marking gender -- Thinking of themselves : transvestism and concepts of the person. Transvestism as a social phenomenon. Concepts of the person, individual and society in India and England : cultural contexts of transvestites and hijras. Contrasting concepts of self within the Hindu and Western traditions. Individuality and identity. Personhood and transvestism in cross-cultural perspective. Blurring the boundaries : deconstructing theories of the self. Transvestites, constructed selves, and issues of sex and gender. A broader conceptualisation of transvestism. 'This is an absurd ordination for people to live in, in 2002'.
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 199-208) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 8
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859736017 , 1859736068 , 1847888712 , 9781847888716
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiv, 178 p)
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes
    RVK:
    Keywords: Clothing and dress ; Fashion ; Clothing and dress History ; Fashion History
    Abstract: With so much focus on contemporary theory, it is easy to forget that the serious analysis of clothing and fashion has a long history. In fact, they have been the subject of intense cultural debate since the nineteenth century. Fashion Classics provid es an interpretative overview of the groundbreaking and often idiosyncratic writings of eight theorists whose work has profoundly influenced the conceptual and theoretical basis of our contemporary understanding of clothes and the fashion system. Car ter fully revives early fashion theorists -- some canonical and others less well known -- and exam
    Description / Table of Contents: Preliminaries; Contents; Acknowledgements; Preface; 1 Thomas Carlyle and Sartor Resartus; 2 Herbert Spencer's Sartorial Protestantism; 3 Thorstein Veblen's Leisure Class; 4 Georg Simmel: Clothes and Fashion; 5 Alfred Kroeber and the Great Secular Wave; 6 J. C. Flügel and the Nude Future; 7 James Laver, the Reluctant Expert; 8 Roland Barthes and the End of the Nineteenth Century; Appendix: Questionnaire Issued by J.C. Flügel in 1929; Bibliography; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 9
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 0521812135 , 9780521812139
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiii, 298 p) , ill
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    DDC: 302.5
    Keywords: Social participation ; Social values ; Social participation ; Trust Moral and ethical aspects ; Trust Social aspects ; Trust
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 271-286) and indexes , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 10
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859732909 , 185973295X , 1847888666 , 9781847888662
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vi, 217 p) , ill , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2005 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.0096
    Keywords: Art patronage ; Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress ; Art patronage
    Abstract: Drawing examples from a wide range of African cultures, this ground-breaking book expands the continuing discourse on the aesthetic and cultural significance of cloth, body and dress in Africa and moves beyond contextual analysis to consider the broader application of cloth and dress to art forms in other media. In blending the concerns of Art History and Anthropology, the authors focus on the art patronage systems that stimulate production, consumption, commodification and cultural meaning, and emphasize the overriding importance of cloth to aesthetic and cultural expression in African societies. Through this approach they reveal complex processes that involve a series of actors, including textile artists, commissioning-patrons and consumer-patrons, all of whom shape cloth and dress traditions. These individuals not only influence production, but are a key to understanding the cultural meaning of cloth and dress and, by extension, the body in Africa
    Abstract: Introduction Part 1: The Impact of Patronage on the Arts of Africa 1 Art Patronage as a Generator of Cloth and Dress 2 Cloth and Dress as a Mirror of Culture in Africa 3 Art Patron Roles 4 Leadership Arts in State Societies Part 2: The Development of Hausa, Nupe and Yoruba Cloth and Dress Traditions 5 Historical Context of Leadership, Trade and Art Patronage 6 Patterns of Production and Consumption in Nineteenth-Century Luxury Cloth Traditions 7 Continuity and Change in Twentieth-Century Cloth Traditions 8 The Fashionable World of the Yoruba Postscript: To Put on Cloth
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 193-208) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 11
    ISBN: 1859732178 , 1859732224 , 1847888755 , 9781847888754
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vii, 204 p) , ill , 25 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.5/0944/36109041
    Keywords: Hairdressing History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles Social aspects ; Paris (France) Social life and customs 20th century
    Abstract: Introduction 1 1910 2 1911 3 1912 4 1913 5 1914 6 1915 7 1916 8 1917 9 1918 10 1919 11 1920
    Abstract: The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order. Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 12
    ISBN: 1859731848 , 1859731899 , 1847888801 , 9781847888808
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (ix, 359 p) , ill., ports , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.008996073075
    Keywords: Slaves Clothing ; African Americans Clothing ; African Americans Clothing 19th century ; History ; African Americans Social life and customs
    Abstract: Introduction: Warping a Folk History 1 Beginning in Africa1 2 Constructing Cloth and Clothing in the Antebellum South 3 Wearing Antebellum Clothing 4 Having Footwear 5 Embellishing the Head2 6 Crowning the Person 7 Clothing as the Weft of a Folk History Epilogue Appendix I: Glossary of Selected Trade-Cloth Terms Used by Europeans Appendix II: Annotated Glossary of Terms Related to Textile Manufacture and Clothing taken from the Narratives Appendix III: Cloth Dyes Reported in the Narratives
    Abstract: This book examines the clothing worn by African Americans in the southern United States during the thirty years before the American Civil War. Drawing on a wide range of sources, most notably oral narratives recorded in the 1930s, this rich account shows that African Americans demonstrated a thorough knowledge of the role clothing played in demarcating age, sex, status, work, recreation, as well as special secular and sacred events. Testimonies offer proof of African Americans' vast technical skills in producing cloth and clothing, which served both as a fundamental reflection of the peoples' Afrocentric craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibilities, and as a reaction to their particular place in American society. Previous work on clothing in this period has tended to focus on white viewpoints, and as a consequence the dress worn by the enslaved has generally been seen as a static standard imposed by white overlords. This excellent study departs from conventional interpretations to show that the clothing of the enslaved changed over time, served multiple functions and represented customs and attitudes which evolved distinctly from within African American communities. In short, it represents a vital contribution to African American studies, as well as to dress and textile history, and cultural and folklore studies
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 337-353) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 13
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 0521443601 , 0521497795 , 9780521443609
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vi, 306 p) , 23 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Cambridge studies in American literature and culture 100
    DDC: 305.5/67/092
    Keywords: Jacobs, Harriet A ; Women slaves Biography ; History and criticism ; Slaves Biography ; History and criticism
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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