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  • 1995-1999  (3)
  • ebrary, Inc  (3)
  • Oxford : Berg  (3)
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  • 1
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859732909 , 185973295X , 1847888666 , 9781847888662
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vi, 217 p) , ill , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2005 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.0096
    Keywords: Art patronage ; Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress ; Art patronage
    Abstract: Drawing examples from a wide range of African cultures, this ground-breaking book expands the continuing discourse on the aesthetic and cultural significance of cloth, body and dress in Africa and moves beyond contextual analysis to consider the broader application of cloth and dress to art forms in other media. In blending the concerns of Art History and Anthropology, the authors focus on the art patronage systems that stimulate production, consumption, commodification and cultural meaning, and emphasize the overriding importance of cloth to aesthetic and cultural expression in African societies. Through this approach they reveal complex processes that involve a series of actors, including textile artists, commissioning-patrons and consumer-patrons, all of whom shape cloth and dress traditions. These individuals not only influence production, but are a key to understanding the cultural meaning of cloth and dress and, by extension, the body in Africa
    Abstract: Introduction Part 1: The Impact of Patronage on the Arts of Africa 1 Art Patronage as a Generator of Cloth and Dress 2 Cloth and Dress as a Mirror of Culture in Africa 3 Art Patron Roles 4 Leadership Arts in State Societies Part 2: The Development of Hausa, Nupe and Yoruba Cloth and Dress Traditions 5 Historical Context of Leadership, Trade and Art Patronage 6 Patterns of Production and Consumption in Nineteenth-Century Luxury Cloth Traditions 7 Continuity and Change in Twentieth-Century Cloth Traditions 8 The Fashionable World of the Yoruba Postscript: To Put on Cloth
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 193-208) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 2
    ISBN: 1859732178 , 1859732224 , 1847888755 , 9781847888754
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vii, 204 p) , ill , 25 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.5/0944/36109041
    Keywords: Hairdressing History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles Social aspects ; Paris (France) Social life and customs 20th century
    Abstract: Introduction 1 1910 2 1911 3 1912 4 1913 5 1914 6 1915 7 1916 8 1917 9 1918 10 1919 11 1920
    Abstract: The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order. Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 3
    ISBN: 1859731848 , 1859731899 , 1847888801 , 9781847888808
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (ix, 359 p) , ill., ports , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.008996073075
    Keywords: Slaves Clothing ; African Americans Clothing ; African Americans Clothing 19th century ; History ; African Americans Social life and customs
    Abstract: Introduction: Warping a Folk History 1 Beginning in Africa1 2 Constructing Cloth and Clothing in the Antebellum South 3 Wearing Antebellum Clothing 4 Having Footwear 5 Embellishing the Head2 6 Crowning the Person 7 Clothing as the Weft of a Folk History Epilogue Appendix I: Glossary of Selected Trade-Cloth Terms Used by Europeans Appendix II: Annotated Glossary of Terms Related to Textile Manufacture and Clothing taken from the Narratives Appendix III: Cloth Dyes Reported in the Narratives
    Abstract: This book examines the clothing worn by African Americans in the southern United States during the thirty years before the American Civil War. Drawing on a wide range of sources, most notably oral narratives recorded in the 1930s, this rich account shows that African Americans demonstrated a thorough knowledge of the role clothing played in demarcating age, sex, status, work, recreation, as well as special secular and sacred events. Testimonies offer proof of African Americans' vast technical skills in producing cloth and clothing, which served both as a fundamental reflection of the peoples' Afrocentric craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibilities, and as a reaction to their particular place in American society. Previous work on clothing in this period has tended to focus on white viewpoints, and as a consequence the dress worn by the enslaved has generally been seen as a static standard imposed by white overlords. This excellent study departs from conventional interpretations to show that the clothing of the enslaved changed over time, served multiple functions and represented customs and attitudes which evolved distinctly from within African American communities. In short, it represents a vital contribution to African American studies, as well as to dress and textile history, and cultural and folklore studies
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 337-353) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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