ISBN:
9781350244207
Language:
English
Pages:
x, 278 Seiten
,
Illustrationen
,
24 cm
Series Statement:
Dress cultures
Parallel Title:
Erscheint auch als Kaplan-Wajselbaum, Jonathan C Jews in suits
DDC:
305.892/4043613
Keywords:
Jews Identity
;
Jewish men Clothing
;
History
;
Tailoring History
;
Suits (Clothing) History
;
Clothing and dress Psychological aspects
;
Juifs - Autriche - Vienne - Identité
;
Confection - Autriche - Vienne - Histoire
;
Clothing and dress - Psychological aspects
;
Jews - Identity
;
Suits (Clothing)
;
Tailoring
;
History
;
Austria - Vienna
;
Wien
;
Juden
;
Männerkleidung
;
Geschichte 1890-1938
Abstract:
Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods - both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists - all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. 'Jews in Suits' uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self
Description / Table of Contents:
Chapter 1: Europe's Third Most Jewish City -- Chapter 2: Fashioning the Self, Dressing Society: Dress and Identity in Europe's Third Jewish Capital -- Chapter 3: Refashioning the Self: Acculturation, Assimilation, and Clothing -- Chapter 4: Strangers in the City: "Rootless" Jews and Urbanity in Vienna -- Chapter 5: Der kleine Cohn: Dress and the Function of Mocking through Caricature -- Chapter 6: The Man in the Suit: Jewish Writers and Their Clothing.
Note:
Includes bibliographical references (pages 250-269) and index
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