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  • BSZ  (20)
  • ebrary, Inc  (11)
  • Barber, Karin  (5)
  • Genovese, Eugene D.
  • Cambridge : Cambridge University Press  (11)
  • Oxford : Berg  (9)
  • Amsterdam : J. Benjamins
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Material
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  • 1
    Book
    Book
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 9781107624474 , 9781107016897
    Language: English
    Pages: X, 201 Seiten , Illustrationen
    Series Statement: New approaches to African history 11
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als Barber, Karin 1949- A history of African popular cultured
    DDC: 306.096
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    Keywords: Geschichte ; Alltagskultur ; Geschichtswissenschaft ; Afrika
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  • 2
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 9781139061766
    Language: English
    Pages: 1 online resource (x, 201 pages)
    Series Statement: New approaches to African history 11
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 306.0967
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    Keywords: Geschichte ; Popular culture History ; Volkskultur ; Subsaharisches Afrika ; Subsaharisches Afrika ; Volkskultur ; Geschichte
    Abstract: Popular culture in Africa is the product of everyday life: the unofficial, the non-canonical. And it is the dynamism of this culture that makes Africa what it is. In this book, Karin Barber offers a journey through the history of music, theatre, fiction, song, dance, poetry, and film from the seventeenth century to the present day. From satires created by those living in West African coastal towns in the era of the slave trade, to the poetry and fiction of townships and mine compounds in South Africa, and from today's East African streets where Swahili hip hop artists gather to the juggernaut of the Nollywood film industry, this book weaves together a wealth of sites and scenes of cultural production. In doing so, it provides an ideal text for students and researchers seeking to learn more about the diversity, specificity and vibrancy of popular cultural forms in African history
    Note: Title from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Jan 2018)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 3
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 9781316481189
    Language: English
    Pages: 1 Online-Ressource (xxxii, 275 Seiten)
    Series Statement: Cambridge studies on the American South
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 306.3/620975
    Keywords: Geschichte 1830-1860 ; Slavery / Southern States / History / 19th century ; Plantation owners / Southern States / History / 19th century ; Paternalism / Southern States / History / 19th century ; Slaves / Southern States / Social conditions / 19th century ; Plantation workers / Southern States / History / 19th century ; Whites / Southern States / Social conditions / 19th century ; Plantagenbesitzer ; Gesellschaftsleben ; Sklaverei ; Alltag ; USA Südstaaten ; USA Südstaaten ; Plantagenbesitzer ; Sklaverei ; Alltag ; Gesellschaftsleben ; Geschichte 1830-1860
    Abstract: This book examines the home and leisure life of planters in the antebellum American South. Based on a lifetime of research by the late Eugene Genovese (1930–2012), with an introduction and epilogue by Douglas Ambrose, The Sweetness of Life presents a penetrating study of slaveholders and their families in both intimate and domestic settings: at home; attending the theatre; going on vacations to spas and springs; throwing parties; hunting; gambling; drinking and entertaining guests, completing a comprehensive portrait of the slaveholders and the world that they built with slaves. Genovese subtly but powerfully demonstrates how much politics, economics, and religion shaped, informed, and made possible these leisure activities. A fascinating investigation of a little-studied aspect of planter life, The Sweetness of Life broadens our understanding of the world that the slaveholders and their slaves made; a tragic world of both 'sweetness' and slavery
    Note: Title from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 29 Sep 2017)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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    URL: Volltext  (lizenzpflichtig)
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  • 4
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1283079690 , 9781847886323 , 9781847886316 , 9781847887399 , 9781472504401 , 9780857851420
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (viii, 204 p) , ill
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Parallel Title: Print version Global denim
    DDC: 306.4
    Keywords: Jeans (Clothing) Social aspects ; Culture and globalization ; Denim Social aspects ; Jeans (Clothing) Social aspects ; Denim Social aspects ; Culture and globalization
    Abstract: On any given day nearly half the world's population is wearing blue jeans. This is entirely extraordinary. Yet there has never been a serious attempt to understand the causes, nature and consequences of denim as 'the' global garment of our world. This book takes up that challenge with gusto. It gives clear, if surprising, explanations for why this is the case; challenging the accepted history of jeans and showing why the reasons cannot be commercial. While discussing the consequences of denim at the global level, the book consists of some exemplary studies by anthropologists of what blue jeans mean in a variety of local situations. These range from the discussion of hip-hop jeans in Germany, denim and sex in Milan through to the connection between denim and recycling in the US. But through all these intensively researched ethnographies of local denim we build our understanding of the most curious of all features of blue jeans - the rise of global denim
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , The making of an American icon: the transformation of blue jeans during the Great Depression , Diverting denim: screening jeans in Bollywood , How blue jeans went green: the materiality of an American icon , The limits of jeans in Kannur, Kerala , 'Brazilian jeans': materiality, body and seduction at a Rio de Janeiro's Funk Ball , Indigo bodies: fashion, mirror work and sexual identity in Milan , Jeanealogies: materiality and the (im)permanence of relationships and intimacy , Carrot-cut jeans: an ethnographic account of assertiveness, embarrassment and ambiguity in the figuration of working -class male youth identities in Berlin , The jeans that don't fit: marketing cheap jeans in Brazil , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 5
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 0511994753 , 1139161601 , 9780511994753 , 9781139161602
    Language: English
    Pages: 1 Online-Ressource (252 pages)
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als Genovese, Eugene D Fatal Self-Deception : Slaveholding Paternalism in the Old South
    DDC: 306.3/620975
    Keywords: Plantation owners History 19th century ; Paternalism History 19th century ; Slaves Social conditions 19th century ; Plantation workers History 19th century ; Whites Social conditions 19th century ; Slavery History 19th century ; SOCIAL SCIENCE ; Slavery ; Paternalism ; Plantation owners ; Plantation workers ; Slavery ; Slaves ; Social conditions ; Whites ; Social conditions ; History ; Southern States
    Abstract: 3 Strangers within the GatesSundry White Servants; Governesses and Tutors; Hired Laborers; Overseers and Their Families; 4 Loyal and Loving Slaves; Masterful Forbearance; Mutual Dependency and Manipulation; Souls; Grief and Money; Tests of Faith; Dangerous Wishes; 5 The Blacks' Best and Most Faithful Friend; A Stagnant Race; Black Incapacity; Black Thoughts, According to White Critics; Views of Emancipation; News from Africa; The Fate of the Indians; The Specter of Barbarism; 6 Guardians of a Helpless Race; Vindication from the Free States; Abolitionism Indicted for Racism.
    Abstract: Cover; Fatal Self-Deception Slaveholding Paternalism in the Old South; Advance Praise for Fatal Self-Deception; Title; Copyright; For Deborah Ann Symonds Gifted Scholar and Wonderful Friend and For her partner, Melissa Cano, and their children, Sarah and Sam; Contents; Preface; Abbreviations; Manuscript Collections; Introduction; 1 "Boisterous Passions"; Edmund Burke's Cautionary Tale; Morals; Apprehensive Parents; Young Gentlemen in Fields and Stores; Weighed in the Balances; 2 The Complete Household; Paternal Authority; Property in Man?; Household Problems; Slave Sales.
    Abstract: Discusses how slaveholders perpetuated and rationalized a romanticized version of life on the plantation
    Abstract: Persistent Fears of Black ExterminationWhite Recognition of Black Achievement; An Incongruity; 7 Devotion unto Death; Armed Slaves: Friends or Foes?; Concern for White Women; Mounting Crises; Body Servants in War and Propaganda; The Confederacy Opts for Black Troops; Notes; Introduction; 1. "Boisterous Passions"; 2. The Complete Household; 3. Strangers within the Gates; 4. Loyal and Loving Slaves; 5. The Blacks' Best and Most Faithful Friend; 6. Guardians of a Helpless Race; 7. Devotion unto Death; Index.
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 6
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 1282818147 , 9780521199070 , 9781282818149 , 9780511917448
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xvi, 345 p) , ill
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Cambridge studies in comparative politics
    Parallel Title: Print version Immigration and Conflict in Europe
    DDC: 304.8/4
    Keywords: Immigrants Cultural assimilation ; Ethnic conflict ; Europe Ethnic relations ; Europe Race relations ; Europe Emigration and immigration ; Electronic book ; Hochschulschrift ; Hochschulschrift ; Hochschulschrift
    Abstract: Explains why we observe clashes between immigrants and natives and between immigrants and state actors in some locations
    Description / Table of Contents: Cover; Half-title; Series-title; Title; Copyright; Dedication; Contents; List of Figures and Tables; Acknowledgments; Part I General Introduction and Theoretical Framework; 1 Introduction; 2 A Theory of Immigrant Conflict; Part II Introduction to Part II; 3 Patterns of Immigrant Conflict in Great Britain; 4 Dynamics of Racist Violence; Part III Introduction to Part III; Previewing the Cases; Addressing Competing Explanations; 5 Immigrant-Native Conflict in Two London Boroughs; 6 Two Faces of Immigrant Conflict in Two Midlands Cities; Part IV Introduction to Part IV
    Description / Table of Contents: 7 Economic Integration, Political Exclusion, and Immigrant Conflict in Germany8 Immigration and Conflict across Countries; 9 Conclusion; Appendix A Coding Large-Scale Instances of Immigrant-Native and Immigrant-State Violence; Appendix B Data and Variables: Immigrant Turnout; Sample Used in Models; Dependent Variables; Independent Variables; References; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 7
    ISBN: 1847883664 , 1847883672 , 1847883680 , 9781847883667 , 9781847883674 , 9781847883681
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (viii, 245 p) , ill
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Uniform Title: Wann is Mode? 〈engl.〉
    Parallel Title: Print version When clothes become fashion
    DDC: 746.9/2
    Keywords: Aesthetics ; Costume Psychological aspects ; Fashion design ; Clothing trade ; Fashion ; Costume Psychological aspects ; Fashion ; Fashion design ; Aesthetics ; Clothing trade
    Abstract: "When, how and why do clothes become fashion? Fashion is more than mere clothing. It is a moment of invention, a distillation of desire, a reflection of a zeitgeist. It is also economically relevant relying on an intricate network of manufacture, marketing and retail. Fashion is both medium and message but it does not explain itself. It requires language and images for its global mediation. It develops from the prescience of the designer and is dependent on acceptance by observers and wearers alike. When Clothes Become Fashion explores the structures and strategies which underlie fashion innovation, how fashion is perceived and the point at which clothing is accepted or rejected as fashion. The book provides a clear theoretical framework for understanding the system of fashion - its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities and economic conditions."--publisher's website
    Description / Table of Contents: Fashion Theory.Does Fashion Need a Theory?Textiles as MaterialClothes as FormFashion as SystemInvention and Innovation.When Is Invention?When Is Creativity?When Is Innovation?When Clothes Become Fashion.When Is Fashion?When Is Fashion Art?When Is Fashion Design?
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 8
    ISBN: 9781845208141 , 1845208145 , 9781845208134 , 1845208137
    Language: English
    Pages: VII, 190 S.
    Edition: English ed., 1. publ.
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Online-Ressource ebrary online Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Edition: [S.l.] Ebrary Berg new media series
    Parallel Title: Druckausg. Green, Nicola, 1969 - Mobile communications
    DDC: 302.231
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    Keywords: Wireless Internet Social aspects ; Mobile communication systems Social aspects ; Cellular telephones Social aspects ; Wireless Internet Social aspects ; Mobile communication systems Social aspects ; Cell phones Social aspects ; Mobile Telekommunikation ; Soziologie ; Handy ; Kommunikation ; Neue Medien ; Kommunikation
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 9
    ISBN: 9780521866606 , 9780521685580 , 052186660X , 0521685583
    Language: English
    Pages: X, 310 S. , graph. Darst.
    Edition: 1. publ.
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Online-Ressource ebrary online Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Edition: [S.l.] Ebrary
    Series Statement: Structural analysis in the social sciences 30
    Series Statement: Structural analysis in the social sciences
    Parallel Title: Druckausg. Kilduff, Martin, 1949 - Interpersonal networks in organizations
    DDC: 302.35
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    Keywords: Self-perception ; Social perception ; Social networks ; Organizational behavior Social aspects ; Power (Social sciences) ; Organizational behavior Social aspects ; Social networks ; Self-perception ; Social perception ; Power (Social sciences) ; Organisationsphsychologie ; Soziales Netzwerk ; Organisationskultur ; Organisationspsychologie ; Soziales Netzwerk ; Organisationsverhalten ; Soziale Wahrnehmung ; Soziales Netzwerk
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 10
    ISBN: 0521897009 , 0521721814 , 1281903922 , 9781281903921 , 9780511438011 , 9780521897006 , 9780521721813
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xv, 314 p)
    Edition: Online-Ausg. 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Parallel Title: Print version Slavery in White and Black : Class and Race in the Southern Slaveholders' New World Order
    DDC: 306.3/620775
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    Keywords: Capitalism History 19th century ; Slavery and the church History 19th century ; Industrialization Social aspects 19th century ; Labor History 19th century ; Slavery Justification ; Working class Social conditions 19th century ; Slavery Moral and ethical aspects 19th century ; History ; Southern States Intellectual life 19th century
    Abstract: This book asks to what extent Southern slaveholders believed the doctrine that enslavement was the best possible condition for all labor
    Description / Table of Contents: Cover; Half-title; Title; Copyright; Dedication; Contents; Preface; Manuscript Collections Cited; Abbreviations; Introduction; 1 The Impending Collapse of Capitalism; 2 Hewers of Wood, Drawers of Water; 3 Travelers to the South, Southerners Abroad; 4 The Squaring of Circles; 5 The Appeal to Social Theory; 6 Perceptions and Realities; Afterword; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 11
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1845206991 , 1845206983 , 1847883486 , 9781845206994 , 9781845206987 , 9781847883483
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (ix, 178 p)
    Edition: English ed
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2011 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Materializing culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Why women wear what they wear
    DDC: 646/.34
    Keywords: Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress Psychological aspects ; Clothing and dress Social aspects ; Women's clothing Social aspects ; Women's clothing Psychological aspects
    Abstract: 'Why Women Wear What they Wear' presents an intimate ethnography of clothing choice. The book uses real women's lives and clothing decisions - observed and discussed at the moment of getting dressed - to illustrate theories of clothing, the body, and identity
    Description / Table of Contents: Understanding women and their wardrobesHanging out in the home and the bedroomBut what were you wearing? clothes and memoriesLooking good, feeling right : the aesthetics of getting dressedLooking in the mirror : seeing and being seenMothers, daughters, friends : dressing in relationshipsFashion : making and breaking the rulesDressing up and dressing down : can you wear jeans?
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 159-168) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 12
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Cambridge : Cambridge University Press
    ISBN: 0511378742 , 9780511378744
    Language: English
    Pages: 1 Online-Ressource (ix, 276 pages)
    Series Statement: New departures in anthropology
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als Barber, Karin Anthropology of texts, persons and publics
    DDC: 398
    Keywords: Oral tradition ; Folklore ; Oral tradition ; Folklore ; SOCIAL SCIENCE ; Folklore & Mythology ; Folklore ; Oral tradition ; Africa ; Electronic book
    Abstract: "What can texts - both written and oral - tells us about the societies that produce them? How are texts constituted in different cultures, and how do they shape societies and individuals? How can we understand the people who compose them? Drawing on examples from all over the world, this survey sets out to answer these questions, by exploring textuality from a variety of angles. Topics covered include the importance of genre, the ways in which oral genres transcend the here-and-now, and the complex relationship between texts and the material world. The book considers the ways in which personhood is evoked, both in oral poetry and in written diaries and letters, discusses the audience's role in creating the meaning of texts, and shows textual creativity to be a universal human capacity expressed in myriad forms. This book will be welcomed by anyone interested in anthropology, literature and cultural studies."--Jacket
    Abstract: 1. Anthropology and text -- 2. Genre, society and history -- 3. The constitution of oral texts -- 4. Text and personhood -- 5. Audiences and publics -- 6. The private -- 7. Textual fields and popular creativity.
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , English
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  • 13
    ISBN: 9780511619656
    Language: English
    Pages: 1 online resource (ix, 276 pages)
    Series Statement: New departures in anthropology
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 302.2
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    Keywords: Oral tradition ; Folklore ; Oral tradition / Africa ; Folklore / Africa ; Schriftlichkeit ; Mündliche Überlieferung ; Afrika ; Afrika ; Afrika ; Schriftlichkeit ; Afrika ; Mündliche Überlieferung
    Abstract: What can texts - both written and oral - tell us about the societies that produce them? How are texts constituted in different cultures, and how do they shape societies and individuals? How can we understand the people who compose them? Drawing on examples from Africa and other countries, this original study sets out to answer these questions, by exploring textuality from a variety of angles. Topics covered include the importance of genre, the ways in which oral genres transcend the here-and-now, and the complex relationship between texts and the material world. Barber considers the ways in which personhood is evoked, both in oral poetry and in written diaries and letters, discusses the audience's role in creating the meaning of texts, and shows textual creativity to be a universal human capacity expressed in myriad forms. Engaging and thought-provoking, this book will be welcomed by anyone interested in anthropology, literature and cultural studies
    Description / Table of Contents: 1. Anthropology and text -- 2. Genre, society and history -- 3. The constitution of oral texts -- 4. Text and personhood -- 5. Audiences and publics -- 6. The private -- 7. Textual fields and popular creativity
    Note: Title from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015)
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 14
    ISBN: 9780521837873 , 0521837871
    Language: English
    Pages: ix, 276 p
    Series Statement: New departures in anthropology 5
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 398
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    Keywords: Oral tradition ; Folklore ; Oral tradition ; Folklore ; Mündliche Überlieferung ; Schriftlichkeit ; Afrika ; Afrika ; Afrika ; Schriftlichkeit ; Afrika ; Mündliche Überlieferung
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index
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  • 15
    ISBN: 0521850657 , 0521615623
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiii, 828 p) , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Parallel Title: Print version The Mind of the Master Class : History and Faith in the Southern Slaveholders' Worldview
    DDC: 306.3/62/0975
    Keywords: Slavery Political aspects ; History ; Slavery Justification ; Slavery Moral and ethical aspects ; History ; Slaveholders Intellectual life ; Slaveholders Religious life ; Slaveholders Social life and customs ; Southern States Social life and customs 1775-1865 ; Southern States Religious life and customs ; Southern States Intellectual life ; Southern States History ; Philosophy
    Abstract: The Mind of the Master Class tells of America's greatest historical tragedy
    Description / Table of Contents: Cover; Half-title; Title; Copyright; Dedication; Contents; Preface; Abbreviations; Prologue; PART ONE CRADLED IN THE STORMS OF REVOLUTION; 1 "That Terrible Tragedy"; 2 The Age of Revolution through Slaveholding Eyes; 3 "The Purest Sons of Freedom"; Entr'acte; PART TWO THE INESCAPABLE PAST; 4 History as Moral and Political Instruction; 5 The Slaveholders' Quest for a History of the Common People; 6 World History and the Politics of Slavery; 7 History as the Story of Freedom; PART THREE ANCIENT LEGACIES, MEDIEVAL SENSIBILITY, MODERN MEN; 8 In the Shadow of Antiquity
    Description / Table of Contents: 9 Coming to Terms with the Middle Ages10 The Chivalry; 11 Chivalric Slave Masters; 12 Chivalric Politics; PART FOUR A CHRISTIAN PEOPLE DEFEND THE FAITH; 13 A Christian People; 14 Unity and Diversity among the Faithful; 15 War over the Good Book; 16 Slavery; 17 The Holy Spirit in the Word of God; 18 Jerusalem and Athens - Against Paris; 19 Serpent in the Garden; 20 Theopolitics; Coda; PART FIVE AT THE RUBICON; 21 Between Individualism and Corporatism; 22 Past and Future Caesars; Epilogue; Supplementary References; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 719-792) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    URL: Volltext  (URL des Erstveröffentlichers)
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  • 16
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859737250 , 185973720X , 184788895X , 9781847888952
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiii, 220 p) , ill
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Unzipping Gender : Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture
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    Keywords: Transvestites ; Transvestism Cross-cultural studies ; Transvestites ; Transvestism Psychological aspects ; Transvestism ; Transvestism Cross-cultural studies ; Transvestites ; Transvestism ; Transvestism Psychological aspects ; Transvestites
    Abstract: How does culture shape notions of sexuality and gender? Why are transvestites in the West so often seen as deviant or perverse, while they are accepted in other societies? What are the implications for the categories of male and female when consideri ng transvestism? Transvestism, and its cultural practice, is a useful lens through which we can view and thus debate models of sex, gender and sexuality. Drawing on primary fieldwork, Unzipping Gender offers a cross-cultural study of transvestism thr ough an examination of transvestites in Britain and the Hijras of India. The author tackles the cr
    Description / Table of Contents: Preliminaries; Contents; List of Illustrations; Preface and Acknowledgements; 1 Introduction; 2 Clothing Sex, Sexing Clothes; 3 Transvestites in the UK; 4 Disorder Within the Pattern; 5 Crossing Gender Boundaries in Cultural Context; 6 Dressing Up/Dressing Down: Reconsidering Sex and Gender Culture; 7 Thinking of Themselves; Appendices; Bibliography; Index
    Description / Table of Contents: The doctrines of gender. The prevalence of transvestism. Clothing as gender landscapeClothing sex, sexing clothes : transvestism, material culture and the sex and gender debate. The importance of sex and gender. Dress and identity : transvestism and material culture. 'Is gender to culture as sex is to nature?' : transvestism and the discourses of sex and gender. Corporeality and the politics of sex. Clothing the brain -- Transvestites in the UK : the dream of fair women. Are those women's clothes? Fieldwork in the UK. Becoming extraordinary : the experience of the transvestite in Western societies. Becoming 'the other.' UK transvestites : interviews with Anthony/Suzanne, John/Joy, Dan/Shelly, Gavin/Gina and Simon/Sandra. The range of possibilities. Clothing choices. Some conclusions about UK transvestites -- Disorder within the pattern : the hijras of India. Fieldwork in India. Hijras in context : who are hijras? Why the hijras? The need to categorise : studies of the hijras. Becoming a hijra. Hijras and the principle of male and female union. Hijras and religion -- Crossing gender boundaries in cultural context : fieldwork comparisons and cultural influences. cross-dressing and clothing choices. Differences in lifestyle. Transvestism within contrasting cosmological contexts -- Dressing up/dressing down : reconsidering sex and gender culture. Woman=soft, man=hard : concepts of language made material. Gendered emotions and the ceremony of naven. Masculine representation of the feminine. Jung and the inner world of opposites. sex, gender or sexuality? Crossing gender as an 'institutionalised' role. The Brazilian travestis. Binary categorisation as 'common sense.' Masculinity, femininity ; genetics and mosaics. The correlates of gender culture-transvestism as material objectification. Cross-cultural evidence and the conceptualisation of gender crossing. Marking gender -- Thinking of themselves : transvestism and concepts of the person. Transvestism as a social phenomenon. Concepts of the person, individual and society in India and England : cultural contexts of transvestites and hijras. Contrasting concepts of self within the Hindu and Western traditions. Individuality and identity. Personhood and transvestism in cross-cultural perspective. Blurring the boundaries : deconstructing theories of the self. Transvestites, constructed selves, and issues of sex and gender. A broader conceptualisation of transvestism. 'This is an absurd ordination for people to live in, in 2002'.
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 199-208) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 17
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859736017 , 1859736068 , 1847888712 , 9781847888716
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (xiv, 178 p)
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Print version Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes
    RVK:
    Keywords: Clothing and dress ; Fashion ; Clothing and dress History ; Fashion History
    Abstract: With so much focus on contemporary theory, it is easy to forget that the serious analysis of clothing and fashion has a long history. In fact, they have been the subject of intense cultural debate since the nineteenth century. Fashion Classics provid es an interpretative overview of the groundbreaking and often idiosyncratic writings of eight theorists whose work has profoundly influenced the conceptual and theoretical basis of our contemporary understanding of clothes and the fashion system. Car ter fully revives early fashion theorists -- some canonical and others less well known -- and exam
    Description / Table of Contents: Preliminaries; Contents; Acknowledgements; Preface; 1 Thomas Carlyle and Sartor Resartus; 2 Herbert Spencer's Sartorial Protestantism; 3 Thorstein Veblen's Leisure Class; 4 Georg Simmel: Clothes and Fashion; 5 Alfred Kroeber and the Great Secular Wave; 6 J. C. Flügel and the Nude Future; 7 James Laver, the Reluctant Expert; 8 Roland Barthes and the End of the Nineteenth Century; Appendix: Questionnaire Issued by J.C. Flügel in 1929; Bibliography; Index
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 18
    Online Resource
    Online Resource
    Oxford : Berg
    ISBN: 1859732909 , 185973295X , 1847888666 , 9781847888662
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vi, 217 p) , ill , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2005 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.0096
    Keywords: Art patronage ; Clothing and dress ; Clothing and dress ; Art patronage
    Abstract: Drawing examples from a wide range of African cultures, this ground-breaking book expands the continuing discourse on the aesthetic and cultural significance of cloth, body and dress in Africa and moves beyond contextual analysis to consider the broader application of cloth and dress to art forms in other media. In blending the concerns of Art History and Anthropology, the authors focus on the art patronage systems that stimulate production, consumption, commodification and cultural meaning, and emphasize the overriding importance of cloth to aesthetic and cultural expression in African societies. Through this approach they reveal complex processes that involve a series of actors, including textile artists, commissioning-patrons and consumer-patrons, all of whom shape cloth and dress traditions. These individuals not only influence production, but are a key to understanding the cultural meaning of cloth and dress and, by extension, the body in Africa
    Abstract: Introduction Part 1: The Impact of Patronage on the Arts of Africa 1 Art Patronage as a Generator of Cloth and Dress 2 Cloth and Dress as a Mirror of Culture in Africa 3 Art Patron Roles 4 Leadership Arts in State Societies Part 2: The Development of Hausa, Nupe and Yoruba Cloth and Dress Traditions 5 Historical Context of Leadership, Trade and Art Patronage 6 Patterns of Production and Consumption in Nineteenth-Century Luxury Cloth Traditions 7 Continuity and Change in Twentieth-Century Cloth Traditions 8 The Fashionable World of the Yoruba Postscript: To Put on Cloth
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 193-208) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 19
    ISBN: 1859732178 , 1859732224 , 1847888755 , 9781847888754
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (vii, 204 p) , ill , 25 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.5/0944/36109041
    Keywords: Hairdressing History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles History 20th century ; Hairstyles Social aspects ; Paris (France) Social life and customs 20th century
    Abstract: Introduction 1 1910 2 1911 3 1912 4 1913 5 1914 6 1915 7 1916 8 1917 9 1918 10 1919 11 1920
    Abstract: The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order. Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture
    Note: Includes bibliographical references and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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  • 20
    ISBN: 1859731848 , 1859731899 , 1847888801 , 9781847888808
    Language: English
    Pages: Online-Ressource (ix, 359 p) , ill., ports , 24 cm
    Edition: Online-Ausg. Palo Alto, Calif ebrary 2009 Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
    Series Statement: Dress, body, culture
    Parallel Title: Erscheint auch als
    DDC: 391.008996073075
    Keywords: Slaves Clothing ; African Americans Clothing ; African Americans Clothing 19th century ; History ; African Americans Social life and customs
    Abstract: Introduction: Warping a Folk History 1 Beginning in Africa1 2 Constructing Cloth and Clothing in the Antebellum South 3 Wearing Antebellum Clothing 4 Having Footwear 5 Embellishing the Head2 6 Crowning the Person 7 Clothing as the Weft of a Folk History Epilogue Appendix I: Glossary of Selected Trade-Cloth Terms Used by Europeans Appendix II: Annotated Glossary of Terms Related to Textile Manufacture and Clothing taken from the Narratives Appendix III: Cloth Dyes Reported in the Narratives
    Abstract: This book examines the clothing worn by African Americans in the southern United States during the thirty years before the American Civil War. Drawing on a wide range of sources, most notably oral narratives recorded in the 1930s, this rich account shows that African Americans demonstrated a thorough knowledge of the role clothing played in demarcating age, sex, status, work, recreation, as well as special secular and sacred events. Testimonies offer proof of African Americans' vast technical skills in producing cloth and clothing, which served both as a fundamental reflection of the peoples' Afrocentric craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibilities, and as a reaction to their particular place in American society. Previous work on clothing in this period has tended to focus on white viewpoints, and as a consequence the dress worn by the enslaved has generally been seen as a static standard imposed by white overlords. This excellent study departs from conventional interpretations to show that the clothing of the enslaved changed over time, served multiple functions and represented customs and attitudes which evolved distinctly from within African American communities. In short, it represents a vital contribution to African American studies, as well as to dress and textile history, and cultural and folklore studies
    Note: Includes bibliographical references (p. 337-353) and index , Electronic reproduction; Available via World Wide Web
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