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Introduction : Fashion and ethnicity ; Fashion and social status ; Fashion and gender ; Fashion and capitalism ; Sources -- The emperor's new clothes: the creation of a fashion industry : The creation of a market for European dress ; Textiles ; The development of European custom tailoring and dressmaking ; Apprentices ; Journeymen ; Masters -- The gendering of sewing in Russia : Russian women's education and vocational training ; Charity and young women's education ; Sewing and the "woman's question" ; The sewing machine ; Sewing, prostitution, and vocational training ; Sewing and elementary education for girls -- The rise of ready-to-wear : The origins of the sweatshop ; New technologies ; Tariffs and imported clothing ; M. and I. Mandl' Company ; Women's work and the needle trades ; Peasant women and the needle trades ; Factory women and the law on night work of 1885 ; The first technical and vocational congress and sewing -- The fashion press in imperial Russia : The origins of the fashion press in Europe and Russia ; The fashion press in Russia, 1830-1870 ; Early marketing strategies ; The rise of the modern fashion magazine, 1870-1917 ; Competition for the fashion market ; Government censorship and publication difficulties -- Clothes shopping in imperial Russia : Shopping and national identity ; The introduction of Western stores in Russia ; Russian shops and trading rows ; Western versus Russian shopping ; Shopping as a social phenomenon ; Urban shopping ; Expansion of shopping outside the two capitals ; Mail-order catalogues ; The Singer Sewing Machine Company in Russia ; Shopping as a gendered phenomenon -- Adorned in dreams: clothing and national identity : Eighteenth-century debates about dress ; The rise of romantic nationalism ; Dress in the age of realism ; Dress and the discovery of the Narod ; Dress and the rise of Russian modernism ; The 1903 winter costume balls ; Lev Bakst and the Ballet Russes -- Adorned in dreams : fashion, labor, and politics : The origins of the garment workers' labor movement ; Labor unrest in the pale of settlement ; The strike movement in Gomel' ; A radical garment worker ; The 1905 Petersburg general strike ; The 1906 Mandl' strike ; The 1913 Petersburg citywide strike -- The war on fashion : Fashion and its critics ; The economic war ; The war against German domination ; The Moscow pogrom ; The Singer Sewing Machine Company ; The ban on luxury goods