1860508359     

Jews in suits : men's dress in Vienna, 1890-1938 / Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum (Hrsg.)

Kaplan-Wajselbaum, Jonathan C. [Herausgeberin/-geber]

London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023 [©2023]

x, 278 Seiten : Illustrationen ; 24 cm

Englisch

Chapter 1: Europe's Third Most Jewish City -- Chapter 2: Fashioning the Self, Dressing Society: Dress and Identity in Europe's Third Jewish Capital -- Chapter 3: Refashioning the Self: Acculturation, Assimilation, and Clothing -- Chapter 4: Strangers in the City: "Rootless" Jews and Urbanity in Vienna -- Chapter 5: Der kleine Cohn: Dress and the Function of Mocking through Caricature -- Chapter 6: The Man in the Suit: Jewish Writers and Their Clothing.

Includes bibliographical references (pages 250-269) and index

Erscheint auch als: Kaplan-Wajselbaum, Jonathan C : Jews in suits. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023 (Online-Ausgabe)

978-1-350-24420-7 (hardback)

978-1-350-24423-8 (ISBN der parallelen Ausgabe im Fernzugriff); 978-1-350-24422-1 (ISBN der parallelen Ausgabe im Fernzugriff)

OCoLC: 1372361555     

unbewegtes Bild

NY 4690      Ähnliche Literatur

DS135.A92

305.892/4043613

*Wien ; Juden ; Männerkleidung ; Geschichte 1890-1938     Zum Register

LOC-SH: Jews -- Austria -- Vienna -- Identity ; Jewish men -- Clothing -- Austria -- Vienna -- History ; Tailoring -- Austria -- Vienna -- History ; Suits (Clothing) -- Austria -- Vienna -- History ; Clothing and dress -- Psychological aspects

Juifs - Autriche - Vienne - Identité ; Confection - Autriche - Vienne - Histoire ; Clothing and dress - Psychological aspects ; Jews - Identity ; Suits (Clothing) ; Tailoring ; Austria - Vienna ; History

Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods - both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists - all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. 'Jews in Suits' uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self